2004 bmw x3 serpentine belt diagram

• WARNING!!! Do this at your own risk. I am just a guy trying to save a few hundred bucks. I purchased the belt from https://www.kia.parts. It is a KIA dealership in Arizona the sells the OEM parts.

Instructions:

• Disconnect battery.
  
• Make a diagram of the serpentine belt orientation. You can also find this online.
  
• I removed the one 10mm(I think) screw/bolt holding down those aluminum looking AC lines that run along the side of the engine. I also disconnected that electronic connection near that area of the screw to give me a bit more room with my wrench.
  
• You can also remove the bottom engine cover to gain access to the pulleys from the bottom, but I chose not to because it looked like a lot of screws.
  
• I used a regular 17mm offset wrench to release tension on the belt for removal. I tried free tool loans from AutoZone, pepboys, and O’reillys, but none had a 17mm socket and they all are too thick for the limited amount space that is given. I believe Harbor Freight has the best price for the offset wrench set.
  
• When installing the new belt, I began from the back and moved forward towards the front so that the AC Compressor is the last thing the belt goes onto.
  
• I placed the floor Jack handle/stick down the back side of the crank pulley to keep the belt from coming off the crank pulley. Having an extra set off hands helps a lot, at least for me it did(thank you, nephew!).
  
• Make sure you start your wrench as parallel to the ground as possible, this part was laborious for me. To get the wrench to sit properly onto the tensioner nut. Having fat hands doesn’t help.
  
• I put as much of the belt over the AC compressor as possible, enough so that when you release the wrench/tensioner, the wrench will not move. I still needed more belt play to get it completely over the AC Compressor.
  
• I readjusted the wrench on the tensioner so that the wrench is close to parallel to the ground.
  
• I lifted up on the wrench and properly finished installing the belt over the AC Compressor.
  
• Triple check the belt placement and orientation. Remove jack handle(if used on crank pulley).
  
• Put back that 10mm screw that holds down the aluminum ac lines.
  
• reconnect the black cable, and your are done.
  

Does anyone know where I can find the belt diagram for a 6110M? My husband thought he could remember how it was routed before he removed the old belt, but once faced with all of the pulleys scattered everywhere he regretted that decision 😅

Alright. This is a big one for anyone out there who’s looking to really shake things up.
I got my hands on a pair of E90 Dakota Terra Leather Sport seats from a 2006 330xi.
I had originally expected that I might have to remove the E46 seat wiring harness and repin those wires to fit the E90 wiring harness I also pulled from that same 2006 330xi.
I was incredibly wrong.
So: if you are planning on doing this, you will need to know some very important things.

1. The E90 seat modules require a 5-9v pulse to the KBUS/Canbus chip that allows the computer module under the drivers seat to ‘wake up’ and allow the seat to function.
   
2. The seat rail width on E90 seats is smaller than the width of the E46 seat rails.
   
3. The E90 seat buckle receptacle will not accept an E46 seat belt buckle.
   

————————-
So, here are your possible options for each issue:

1. Module ‘Wake up’ —————

• Install an electrical timer with a 555 chip and a buck converter (Voltage step-down board) to the existing +/- wires for this function.
  
• Strip the seat module from the seat, and rewire the entire seat.
  
• Any other possibilities require substantial modification, and without a machining shop, I believe any other options are out of range.
  

————- 2. Seat Rail Width Difference ————-

• Custom fabricate metal brackets both easy enough to drill through and strong enough to be safe in a car crash.
  
  • Drill new mounting points for the seats.
  • Swap the rails from the E46 seats (This is a huge process in which you will also have to re wire everything as the seat electrical and motors are affixed to the rails). There will also be a major fitment issue afterwards.

———— 3. Seat Belt ————

• Swap E46 belt receptacle to the E90 seats and retain the E46 Belt.
  
• Swap the E90 Belt to the E46 and retain the E90 buckle.
  

—————
Oh! I shouldn’t forget to mention that there are absolutely no guides to do this project anywhere. There are a small handful of videos on complete hardwiring jobs to completely different cars, and a few of those show how to build a timer board.
There is a single post on E46Fanatics where a person swapped E90 seats to an E46, but only included some slight information about custom fabricating brackets to mount the seats in the E46.
———- WIRING ————
——-The Issue———-
There is also extremely limited information anywhere online on plain colour coded diagrams for the E90 seats and the E46 seats. Now, why is this? Well, BMW used different pins & colours for a wide variety of seats in a wide variety of years.
Ex. Standard power seats will have different pins / colours than sport seats, and the differences could be different even in the next year of the same chassis.
So, you are on your own for this - except you’ve got this post.
With substantial trial & error, buying diagrams, learning how to read wiring diagrams, learning electrical, etc. I have figured out all of the pins on my car & E90 seat.
So - if you have a Facelift Sedan with standard seats with power & heating, and pre-2007 E90 sport seats, I may be able to help you.
———What I Did————-
I decided it would be best to strip the seat module from the drivers seat and hardwire all of the motors to a new custom switchboard.
With OEM E90 wiring, there are 2 positive & negative wires powering the seats. One set is for the heated elements, and one is for the motors.
With the module stripped, I wired 6 individual positives and 6 individual negatives to the OEM seat function positive and negative wires.
(Learn about wire gauges, voltage/amperage limits for the gauges/types of wires you use, etc. be safe.)
Why did I have to replace the switch module too? Because the computer module was essentially ‘decoding’ the signal from the switch module, not allowing you to bypass the computer module and retain the switch module.
These wires are then connected to 6 double-pole double-throw momentary toggle switches.
Picture a 6 pack of pop / soda from the top down. You’ve got 6 poles.
The middle two will be your positive & negative in, on their respective sides.
The top two will be wires with splices to cross diagonally to the bottom two.
So, your top left pole wire will bounce over to the bottom right pole, while also having an ‘out’ connection point. This allows you to use reverse polarity to reverse the positive & negative signal to the affixed motor, allowing you to move a seat forwards and backwards.
——-Custom Switch Board———
These 6 switches were mounted on a custom carbon fiber board.
I tried to use the seat electrical cover (the long black plastic section housing the switches and covering the seat rails) but ultimately I cut out the existing switch module mount points (plastic) and tried to plastic weld the board on. This didn’t work since the plastic was essentially just covering the carbon fiber board. Upon pressing a switch, the whole board would pop out.
I tried self tapping screws, they hollowed out the carbon fiber instead of creating grooves, so this didn’t work either.
I gave up and straight-up JB Welded the board to the plastic, from the inside. It’s solid now, and not visible from the exterior.
————————————-
This is where I am currently at.
To get the heated seat function to work, I will need to buy a second passenger seat heating module, as the drivers heating module is a part of the seat module I stripped.
The passenger side module is standalone and only requires +/- input so it is pretty straightforward.
I also still need to make brackets for the rails - I bought some stainless steel brackets, but I can’t drill through them for the life of me.
I’ll be sure to update this post as I progress.
Best of luck!
TL;DR, don’t swap for E90 seats unless you are an electrician & machinist.
Edit: Attempted some mobile formatting.

Hi All,
Hoping to get some insight into my recent car troubles. So it's a 2014 BMW 428i xDrive coupe. I've heard a major issue with the N20 engine is the timing chain guide goes out and can cause an engine to blow. I've heard this usually occurs around 50-60k miles and I had just hit 60k so I brought it into my usual independent shop. The checked it out and stated it was fine but noticed a few other issues that I ended up getting replaced.
I ended up getting a new oil filter housing gasket, emergency brake cable guide, serpentine belt and had the oil changed. Everything seemed fine but the next morning while driving on the highway my motor just shut off. I had to ghost ride to the shoulder and my car wouldnt restart. The screen shows an igition/starter error message but nothing else. I had the car towed to the shop and they rechecked all their work. They also put in a new igntion, battery and checked the alternator. They cant seem to pinpoint the issue. I now had to get the car towed to a dealership and they're charging me 550 to check the work because the work had already been done from another shop.
Any idea what the issue could be? Thanks for your time!

Hello, I have a 2009 Kia Spectra Ex with 2.0 DOHC 4cyl engine. I have been hearing a terrible grinding noise under the hood for past couple of weeks and have found the source to be the AC compressor pulley. When I watch it at idle, the pulley either spins slowly or stops for a few seconds then does a half spin and stops again. There is some nasty grinding going on. I cannot move it by hand when engine is off and there is no difference qhen the AC is off or on.
So I live in an area where I dont need AC, and I would happily live without it if I could get the noise to go away. I am also scqred the belt will snap and cause some damage while driving.
This engine appears to have 3 serpentine belts, one from the crank to the generator and water pump, one between water pump and power steering and then one from crank to AC pulley. The one from crank to AC pulley rides along the top of, but not around another pulley labeled "T" in the diagram. Basically what I want to know is, does T stand for timing? If this belt is not going around a pulley but rather on top of it, will removing thw belt hurt something important? and could I just cut this belt and drive without AC and the grinding noise?
Ive been looking all over the internet for help, but cant seem to find anything and hoping that someone out there has seen this before in a Spectra.
Thanks!

so essentially here’s the story. i bought my first car (2004 545i) off of my former plug who just got a newer model cause his parents have money like that and it was starting to have problems and he just didn’t wanna deal with them. fast forward to now. i have the car and she ran well for about 2 weeks until the serpentine belt snapped on me. had to wait for some money to come in because of bi weekly pay but i got it fixed and learned a pulley popped with the belt so i got that fixed too. only issue is now the car won’t start. originally it made a sound when trying to start reminiscent of the battery being dead so we just pulled the battery and charged it. put it back in and now that motherfucker won’t start at all. (before we got her to rip up the street and back) so uh yeh. any ideas help we already tested the alternator and it’s good so our running theory is a wiring issue somewhere, the starter, or the battery.

Hello, I need help. I have a 2007 Dodge caliber with a 2.0 engine. I had to replace my alternator and I cannot get my serpentine belt to fit the diagram and everything I followed but it’s about an inch too short I have bought two serpentine belts and neither one fits any recommendations on how to get the belt to fit. The serpentine belt fits the 2.0 and the 2.4 engine. if anybody has had this issue any recommendation would be really appreciated.

2008 bmw 328i n52. Hit a pothole a while ago and I heard a belt slapping around but it seemed to still be intact for a few days until yesterday when I assume it snapped and now there’s no power steering no scratches and there’s a battery light as well as a service soon light that just came on. I’m hearing it’s a serpentine belt but I have no idea. What could it be and how much would it cost? Thanks

So I got 2004 330xi. I was changing out the coil packs a little while ago when I noticed that the ones I had ordered wouldn't work. The coil packs that did work though were from the 2001 model. Mine are like this: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-ignition-coil-12131748017x6 The ones I'm supposed to have are like this: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-ignition-coil-12131712219x6
My engine is compatible with the first. If it wasn't, it wouldn't run and wouldn't bolt in perfectly, at least I don't think it would. Car is an LCI and has a six speed manual instead of the five speed, so the car is definitely a 2004 (assembled in October 2003 but it shouldn't matter). The other odd thing though, is it has an electric fan, instead of a belt driven one. I don't really want to take apart my car to read the engine VIN, so what's going on? Should it matter? Carfax gives no information on an engine swap to another M54B30, and the previous two owners couldn't properly install a power steering pump. Or is this just some strange carry-on?

So I got 2004 330xi. I was changing out the coil packs a little while ago when I noticed that the ones I had ordered wouldn't work. The coil packs that did work though were from the 2001 model. Mine are like this: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-ignition-coil-12131748017x6 The ones I'm supposed to have are like this: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-ignition-coil-12131712219x6
My engine is compatible with the first. If it wasn't, it wouldn't run and wouldn't bolt in perfectly, at least I don't think it would. Car is an LCI and has a six speed manual instead of the five speed, so the car is definitely a 2004 (assembled in October 2003 but it shouldn't matter). The other odd thing though, is it has an electric fan, instead of a belt driven one. I don't really want to take apart my car to read the engine VIN, so what's going on? Should it matter? Carfax gives no information on an engine swap to another M54B30, and the previous two owners couldn't properly install a power steering pump. Or is this just some strange carry-on?

I have a 2004 Chevy Malibu classic. It did 4 very slow cranks but cranked up. Went to store back to car won't start. I replaced the starter but still won't start. It does one loud click. Upon further inspection I found piece of copper wire tore up on the left side of the engine and some of the copper wiring is caught up in the serpentine belt. Can someone tell me what wiring or cable that could be?

Hey, my front 12V socket seems to be live all the time in my 2004 X3. isnt it suposed to cut power when i stop the engine and pull out the key?

My friend’s 2004 Mercedes C230 Kompressor started showing the Battery/Alternator Visit Workshop message on the display. I used a multimeter to check the voltage at the battery terminals. With the car off it was around 12.6v and about 13.5v when idling. From what I’ve heard on the internet, 13.5v is low so I decided to replace the alternator. The installation went fairly smoothly but the alternator the parts store gave me was slightly different. Instead of having a plastic connector for what I believe is a sensing wire (not the wire that goes to the battery), it had a lug and a nut like the battery wire. The dad of the person who owned the cad suggested that the end of the sensing wire could be replaced with a ring terminal. The original plastic connector had 2 holes for pins but only one was being used and only 1 wire was coming out of the connector. So we did that and I put it back together. The battery/alternator warning was still there, even though the voltage at the battery was now about 14.3v at idle. We took the car for a short drive to see if the message would clear itself. When we got back, we opened the hood to see if anything was obviously wrong but we noticed that the engine seemed really hot even though it was just a short drive. I did spin the water pump by hand a few times (for no particular reason) while the serpentine belt was off which I was thinking may have caused the overheating issue (I still don’t know if the car was actually overheating). Any suggestions on either issue would be massively appreciated. Thanks in advance for any replies.

I’ve found a few solid seeming sub-$4000 cars locally in my area: they are:

1. 2003 Lexus ES330, 192k miles. Impeccable leather and wood interior, dealer service records, rust free, good tires, everything works except AC is a little weak. Clean title. $3900
   
2. 2003 Toyota Camry. 184k miles, base cloth interior is in great condition, clean title and everything works. 4 cylinder engine. $3100
   
3. 2007 Ford Taurus. 149k miles, 3.0v6, base cloth interior in great shape. Everything works on this one except a tiny rust spot on the rear left fender. It has good tires and a clean title. $1950.
   
4. 2004 Pontiac Grand Prix. 148k miles. New front tires, new transmission fluid, new plugs and wires, new serpentine belt, new water pump. New struts and new sway bar links. 3.8 V6. Clean Title. $4400 (this one’s a bit more expensive but I could go about $500 over budget).
   
5. 2008 Ford Fusion. 130k miles. Cold AC, hot heat, 4 cyl engine, base cloth interior in great shape. Clean title and $3700.
   

What are the best cars out of this list?

Hello! Thank you to anyone who reads this! I have a 2004 Chevy Colorado. One day I was driving and my power steering went out. I hopped out and looked under the hood to find out my serpentine belt had flown off. Replaced it and put it back out DIY. After that when I went to turn truck on and it won’t fully turn on but makes a truly awful horrifically loud grinding metal noise until I turn the key back off. All the dash lights will come on. Battery should be fine and it was replaced not that long ago. Could this be the starter? Videos I’ve found of the starter grinding aren’t as awful as mine sounds. It so bad!!
I really need to figure this out because this is my work truck. As soon as I have some money I’m going to get a mobile mechanic to come look but in the mean time any ideas? Could it be the serpentine belt still? Thanks for your help!

Spec: bmw x3 2004
Tailgate door got stuck this morning leaving the interior rear lights on the whole time, I would just get a clicking spin when pulling the external handle. So I went into the back and opened it through the manual release perfect. Closed it again and now the problem is the tailgate doesn’t budge at all it can only be opened through the manual release. Is there a good chance I’m looking at an electrical problem at this point? What do we think

1996 Toyota 4runner. Belt slipped off. I've been trying to figure out which one it is using this site, and I think it's the serpentine belt given the 2/3 position on the center pulley in the last photo but am not sure. Anyone know?
Follow up question would be any guesses as to why it slipped off, and whether I should replace it as a precaution or just put the old back back on...
Possibly relevant detail: The vehicle was driven for up to an hour after it came off. A fairly non-mechanical friend was borrowing it and didn't check it until they got into the driveway.. The belt appears undamaged.
Thanks in advance :)

Need advice from the community on a potential purchase. Opinions on value of the truck, potential cost of ownership, and longevity welcome.
Context: Looking into buying a 2500HD GM Truck as a “forever” truck and a reasonably priced LB7 caught my eye. Was primarily looking for a 6.0, but thought this was worth exploring. This would be my first diesel truck, but, to give you some idea of my mechanical abilities and inclination, I’ve owned a 1996 K1500 for the last 10 years, doing 90% of the work on it myself, having put ~92k of the 235k on it in that time. I’m confident I could maintain this truck myself, primarily, with some of the niche diesel work being outsourced, if needed. I intend to use it as a daily and want towing capacity in excess of a 1500 to tow my K1500 as I begin restoring it. Not terribly worried about the cost of ownership, but want to manage my expectations.
Truck details: 2004 2500HD CCSB 4x4 409k miles Original engine and trans DSP5 & EFILive
Use: daily driven, long haul trips towing boats and race cars
Good - owned by a diesel mechanic, purchased from a customer of his ~14-17 months ago - clean title - primarily owned and driven in NC & SC - primarily stock with reliability mods - FASS Lift pum - rebuilt front end - injectors and fuel press reg done recently
Bad - 6 minor accidents on carfax - original head gaskets, no studs - oil press without additive is 14-16psi - no receipts for maintenance
Maintenance & Mods (disclosed by seller)
Trans fluid and filter 349,000 Fass fuel system 349,000 Fuel filter housing rebuild 349,000 Power steering lines 349,000 Power steering pump (newer Duramax upgrade) 349,000 Front and rear axle fluids changed 350,000 Transfer case rebuild and pump ugrade, new fluid 350,000 Pitman arm 350,000 Inner and outer tie rod ends 350,000 Steering wheel switches 350,000 4x4 switch 351,000 Headlight switch 351,000 Sway bar end links 351,000 Steering gear box 351,000 Injectors, fuel pressure regulator, valve adjustment, water pump 351,000 Universal joint 352,000 Passenger wheel bearing hub assembly 352,000 Kryptonite ball joints 352,000 Batteries 354,000 Headliner 356,000 Alternator 357,000 Low coolant sensor (reservoir), Radiator, and coolant flush 359,000 LED lights installed in instrument cluster 359,000 LED climate control module 359,000 Shocks front and rear 359,000 Rear brake pads and rotors 361,000 Driver's side wheel bearing hub assembly 362,000 Brake light switch 364,000 Starter 365,000 Brake hydroboost 368,000 Front brake calipers, rotors, and pads 368,000 AC compressor, accumulator, orifice tube, 372,000 Oil cooler seals and gaskets 378,000 Driver's seat foam 385,000 Idler pulleys and serpentine belt 405,000